Understanding steel reinforcement.
The slab and the wall are connected, and the wall is prevented from being pushed over, by two rows of starter bars, 16mm or 12mm or one row of each depending on what he specifies.
To get steel this straight along a wall you MUST, first, fix the two sides together, upright, in the middle about 1.2m from the floor. Then you work your way toward the corners with more U bars on 1.2m centres. Finally fix corners upright both sides after both walls have been plumbed.
If you don't add the U bars described above you cannot be this neat.
Professional steel fixers will argue till the end of the earth you never use these U bars and you CANNOT fix steel this upright or this neat. Impossible. Utterly unreasonable of you to expect them to do this.
Yet all my self build clients who fix their own steel do so this upright and this neat. Your formwork is a lot easier if you haven't got to use tonnes of force to bend curved wall steel to where you need it to be.
I have sketched a corner to show how we actually get the bent starter bars in place. You need to imagine a string line between profile boards for the actual steel location. This is the idea ....
You might use two people for the first bits. By fixing two bars to the mesh back and front and using a bar as a diagonal, the 3 bars '1' will stand up. Ditto for 3 bars '2'. Then one person can fix the upright bar '3' and fix a corner bar '3' to it and to a bar '1' and to a bar '2'. Your corner is now strong. You will need two people again to fix a long length (of wall steel '4') from a corner to a bar at its far end. Having got this far, it's easy for one person to fill in the gaps with bars. Sometimes the bar '4' is moved along and pushed into the bank.
Try to keep your diagonals out of the first pour. Everything you've used above this pour is temporary and you will reclaim all that steel once the slab concrete has set.
If you can, tie the top mesh so that tying the starter bars to a straight bar in the mesh sets them in exactly the right place. Or else you can tie a straight bar to the mesh and fix the starters to that.
Or, I prefer, buying the mesh with flying ends and extra straight 10mm bar. In this way I fix extra bar to the mesh where bars are missing exactly where the starter bars need to be and I have maximum room to get my starter bars in.
The mesh in this image has flying ends. When you lap sides you aren't wasting steel with identical bars side by side against each other, you aren't making a mountain at corners where 4 sheets need to overlap, and if you don't need full sheets down an edge you can plan to throw away the bit with 2 bars missing so less money thrown away.
I always fix walls with A393 mesh 4.8m along the wall and 2.4m high with the flying end tails upwards. Therefore, when I am filling and pokering concrete only 1.9m high the poker is not obstructed by horizontal bars 2.3m high. The work of concreting and pokering is easier. And I buy plenty of straight 10mm bar to fix to the top of the wall by hand, which is pretty easy with all the steel I'm fixing to already held firm in set concrete.
In case you want to order your steel yourself, (under Concrete Reinforcement in Yellow Pages) you will need to know the language. We found the following information on the Hy-Ten Steel Home Page. We've copied it because some readers may have trouble finding it on the Hy-Ten site.
British Standard preferred meshes in stock size sheets 4.8m long 2.4m wide.
Major reinforcing suppliers are Hy-Ten Express Reinforcements BRC Rainham Steel Steel Reinforcement Suppliers
Accessories suppliers are
"Buildspan - the concreters warehouse" Speedcrete Max Frank Lemon Groundworks Formwork Direct Siteright Construction Materials